DATE: June 17, 2005 9:50:31 AM PDT
The Road Less Traveled

The Road Less Traveled
Story and photos by PA2 Brooksann Anderson, D14 Public Affairs

Mud Run 
EM1 Frank Duffy and MK2 Steve Parks fly
thorough a mud hole discovered half way
down a new trail to Pohakuloa Point Light,
neither of the ANT work trucks got stuck in the hole.
Four-wheel drive, dark blue and loaded with equipment, the Silverado 3500 truck backed into a Coast Guard C-130 Hercules in the early morning hours of March 29 to start its annual trip to the Hawaiian Island of Lanai.

Every year the Aids to Navigation Team in Honolulu services 98 fixed shore aids scattered throughout the Hawaiian Islands. They may not have as many aids to service as other ANTs but they have a more complex problem - transportation.

"Every aid is different, even though they may have the same equipment, their location makes for some interesting accessibility problems among the different islands," said Senior Chief Petty Officer Thomas Dutton, Officer in Charge of ANT Honolulu.

Lanai, located southeast of Maui, is a very small rural island, with one grocery store and not a stop light in sight. Its even smaller population of about 3,000 lives mainly in Lanai City located in the center of the island atop the mountain. The aids however are located at the base of the island on very remote stretches of beach and in one case an extremely steep cliff.

"Lanai is the only trip in which we camp. We get to see things that most locals don't even get to see," said Petty Officer 1st Class Shawn Fountain, a boatswain's mate at ANT Honolulu.

Kaumalapau Light is traditionally the first light they fix because it is the hardest to reach. Carrying a new lantern, bulbs, tools and determination they have to walk on the rocky shore around the harbor, a feat that can only be done at low tide. They then climb an almost vertical cliff in combat boots, where progress is slow and there is no trail; there are no handholds, just sweat and dirt.

 Climbing Tower
Using a harness, Petty Officer 2nd Class Steve Parks, a machinery technician at ANT Honolulu climbs the Palaloa Point Light tower to service the lantern and check the battery.

"Carrying a 60-pound battery back down that cliff felt more like one long slide down. Then walking across the shoreline, which is nothing but loose rocks made it hard to keep my balance," said Petty Officer 2nd Class Steven Parks, a machinery technician at ANT Honolulu. "It took teamwork between Petty Officer Duffy and I to get it back in one piece. We were covered in dirt and sweat but proud to have done it."

As they rest and drink water in the tropical heat, they discussed the next leg of their journey; navigating the roads to the other two lights. Road being a polite word for the volcanic rocks, dirt, ditches and lots of kiawe blocking their way to the other lights.

"The more times we travel the roads it becomes easier and flattens the road, but if it rains a lot we are back to square one," said Fountain. "I know the locals appreciate us clearing the trails since they don't have some of the resources, equipment or vehicles that we bring with us."

Having to navigate the roads at a snail's pace and anticipating getting stuck in ditches or mud holes is why they stayed on island for four days and three nights. "It is just easier to camp at the lights than to make the hours-long trek back the next day if we have more work to do," said Fountain.

 Kiawe
 Petty Officer 1st Class Frank Duffy, an electrician’s
mate at ANT Honolulu moves freshly cut kiawe
from the trail. The ANT usually spends an entire
day cutting back the over grown sections of some
of the trails to reach their lights.
Their other major problem on Lanai is kiawe. Kiawe is a type of Mesquite tree that was imported to Hawaii in the 1800s and prospers in its tropical climate. It is a bushy tree with one to two inch long thorns, which have been known to pierce truck tires.

The kiawe grows extremely fast, covering the trails and forcing the ANT members to bring along several chainsaws and safety gear. "Sometimes it is really overgrown and completely impassable without cutting it," said Fountain.

Once they finally arrived at Palaloa Point Light, it was work, work, and work. Up until dusk, then it was time to set up camp, grill, rest, and enjoy the beautiful beach view. One of the crew was lucky enough to find a little piece of history. A small ancient Japanese glass fishing net buoy, rolling in the surf.

"I found one of the balls [at Palaloa Point Light] while walking the beach with a flashlight and I found another one the next day at Pohakuloa Light," said Petty Officer 1st Class Frank Duffy, an electrician's mate at ANT Honolulu. "I am so fortunate to have found even one, most people don't find any their entire lives."

The third leg of the journey to Pohakuloa Light they had a stroke of bad luck. They took a trail recommended by some local residents with good intentions as any easier way to the light. Instead it only lead to problems.

Half way down the trail, there was a mud hole so deep a truck stuck up to its doors was already in it. The two passengers were relieved to see the wenches attached on both ANT trucks. After wrenching out the truck, it was the crew's turn to make a run for it. Both trucks made it through, only to discover the trail dead-ended them a couple of miles away from the light. This

 Stuck
BM1 Shawn Fountain and Seaman Jake Burg
attach a wench cable to a local resident’s truck to
tow him out of a massive mud hole half way down a trail
on Lanai, Hawaii leading to Shipwreck Beach.
meant a lot of back tracking and the loss of valuable day light hours.

"We were disappointed but now we know there aren't any short cuts. At least neither of the trucks got stuck in the huge mud hole at the start of the trail," said Fountain.

Always on the positive side they set up camp and decided to get an early start the next day. Up early and on the trails they managed to reach the light sooner than they expected and begin its repairs. Pohakuloa Point Light needed the most extensive work so far because they had to replace the heavy wooden dayboard as well as work on the lantern.

"It was really hard to get the old dayboard off and then the new one up in what felt like hurricane force winds. It took four of us a couple of hours to get it positioned and secured in the right place," said Parks.

After that ordeal the day was far from over, they immediately went to work cutting kiawe for the return trip out in the morning. "Normally, we would have widened and cleared the trail for an entire day but since we lost a day we didn't have time," said Fountain.

Bulbs 
 Petty Officer 2nd Class Steve Parks, a
machinery technician at ANT Honolulu
installs new bulbs into the lantern of Palaloa
Point Light, Lanai, Hawaii.
Finally at dusk they set up camp for the last time and tried to get some much-deserved rest. The next day they had to be up early in order to pack up and drive back to the airport in time to catch their return flight. After washing the mud and grime off the work trucks, they were ready to catch their C-130 ride home.

Back at their unit on the island of Oahu, liberty is granted as soon as the trucks have been unpacked. Tired and ready for a shower they all go their separate ways for the weekend.

"To me Aids to Navigation Teams give you a great sense of accomplishment," said Dutton, a veteran of six Aids to Navigation Teams. "At the end of the day you can look back and see the fruits of your labor. Overcome and adapt is what all ANTs do."

 

 

 

 

 

 

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